More and more restaurants in germany can adorn themselves with stars from the guide michelin. The edition of the hotel and restaurant guide presented in berlin on tuesday lists 309 gourmet restaurants, 9 more than in the previous year.
But the one-star restaurants are booming. There is one less restaurant in each of the two even higher categories. "Of the 309 starred restaurants, 42 are new," said pascal couasnon, managing director of food and travel at michelin. "Many chefs grow their own vegetables. In addition, local products play a major role."
Ten restaurants receive three stars, one less than in 2018, because "la vie" in osnabruck has given up. Five restaurants are newly awarded two stars, six lose one or both stars. Of the 261 restaurants with one star, 37 are new to the list.
The director of the guide michelin for germany and switzerland, ralf flinkenflugel, explains the upswing with ever better quality in the kitchen. "We have not changed our criteria. It’s simply because the cooking is better."The more good restaurants there are, the more young people are trained to open their own restaurants. "There are more and more young chefs who have fresh ideas and bring new momentum to the german top gastronomy."
Strongholds for gourmets are cities with over a million inhabitants, such as berlin, hamburg and munich. But even small towns like baiersbronn in the black forest, with two three-star restaurants and two one-star establishments, or andernach in rhineland-palatinate, with two one-star and one two-star establishments, are attractions for gourmets.
According to flinkenflugel, the trends of the past years are continuing. In berlin, for example, the "CODA dessert dining" is new with a star, where there is a cuisine based on patisserie. There you sit at the counter or at wooden tables. "It’s completely relaxed."At "ernst" – also newly awarded a star in berlin – the counter frames the cooking area of the small restaurant. "The restaurateurs have recognized what the guests want, they want good food in a relaxed atmosphere," said flinkenflugel. "This elitist was yesterday."
Three of the five new restaurants with two stars are located in bavaria: "sosein" in heroldsberg in central franconia, "luce d’oro" in krun in upper bavaria and "alexander herrmann by tobias batz" in wirsberg in upper franconia. In addition, two stars now adorn the "ox&" klee" in cologne. Purs" in andernach, with chef christian eckhardt, has risen from zero to two stars, which flinkenflugel says is unusual. The freiburg-born chef had previously won two stars at the "villa rothschild" restaurant in konigstein (hesse).
Although numerous chefs came to berlin to celebrate the new michelin issue, only one woman stood in front of the press in the afternoon at the motorwerk: dalad kambhu from the "kin dee" in berlin. The 32-year-old, who cooks thai food, commented on the surplus of men with the statement: "we have a problem here. We need to change that."She herself specifically promotes women in her restaurant, which received one star for the first time.
The michelin makers listed 10 women in the presentation of the 309 star chefs – none of them in the highest class with three awards. Douce steiner from the "hirschen" in sulzburg in baden-wurttemberg remains at the top of the women’s list. Overall, women are strongly underrepresented in the gourmet sector. Hard working conditions, the rough tone in the kitchens and partly also reservations of the male star chefs are considered to be some of the reasons.
By far the most starred restaurants are in baden-wurttemberg (77), followed by bavaria (52), north rhine-westphalia (47) and rhineland-palatinate (27). Baden-wuerttemberg, bavaria and the saarland lead the way with two three-star establishments each. Gourmets have no choice in thuringia and saxony-anhalt, where there is a single restaurant with one star each. The smallest state, bremen, comes away empty-handed.
Those looking for a particularly good price-performance ratio will find what they are looking for in the "bib gourmand deutschland" restaurant guide, which is also new. There are 424 houses listed, 36 fewer than in 2018.
The guide michelin arrives on 4. March in the trade. The first michelin stars in germany were awarded in 1966.